This is a dish that originated in ‘‘The Escoffier Cookbook’’ as a ‘‘garnish’’ for lamb chops: macaroni and cheese, essentially, for fancy people. It serves well as a main dish, though, particularly if you double the recipe. Escoffier added both truffles and tongue to the mix, and you can, too, though it is hardly necessary. Serve with a salad if not lamb chops, and give thanks for the old ways.
½ pound dried macaroni pasta, or cavatelli, gemelli, even ziti
thin slices ham, about 2 ounces, cut into thin ribbons
small mushrooms, ideally wild, sliced thin
tablespoons tomato purée
tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
tablespoons grated Gruyère cheese
tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
364 calories; 12 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 3 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 2 grams sugars; 15 grams protein; 36 milligrams cholesterol; 363 milligrams sodium
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